Technique 1:
if you use an DSLR use its “Dark Frame Subtraction” mode. This reduces noise and issues of uneven pixel brightness and response – however be aware that it also doubles the exposure time – it takes a dummy shot albeit with the shutter closed. The latest High-End DSLR’s don’t need this.

Technique 2
Use a good tripod and if it has a hook on the end of the centre column weigh it down with your camera bag. Use a 2 -10 second delay: that way (if you use a DSLR) the mirror goes up before the shutter – this reduces vibration. With a Nikon use shutter delay mode.

Technique 3
Use a – 1 1/3 to – 1/3 EV bracket or a – 2/3 EV adjustment. Why? Night photography can have a huge dynamic range, so although you can’t see it on the camera histogram, such highlights that are there will blow out, and this reduces contrast and perceived sharpness. Typically to get the right exposure on my D 700 requires a – 0.33 to -1.00 exposure compensation. Best use Manual mode if you can though. Whatever, don’t over-expose: it just doesn’t look right.

Technique 4
Use a fairly wide aperture (F2.8-F8) . Why? Generally, noise creeps into shots with longer exposure times, so try to minimise exposure without increasing ISO . This also minimizes opportunities for camera shake. Generally I try to use 5.6 – F8 max depending on how dark it is….if its semi dark use f8-F11 or just aim for an exposure between 3-10 seconds.

Technique 5
use a low ISO. Seems obvious? Not really as a lot of people try to keep exposure as short as possible out of habit,  so just turn auto ISO OFF! When it comes to noise, a long exposure on a tripod is preferable to a short and higher ISO one.

Technique 6
In semi dark situations – if into a sunset – use either a 2 stop Graduated Neutral Density filter or a colour version of the same. Why? Filters seem to scare some people but they are pretty simple. The dynamic range in such a scene is far too great for the sensor ( DSLRS can capture around 8-10 EV or so compared to a total of 12-16 EV in such a situation: blown highlights can never be recovered and nor can total blacks. Having a filter on balances the brightness between the sky and the foreground. Yes you can use CS2/3 to balance it after the shot but a highlight lost is never, ever, recovered (even with RAW) so there is no substitute for using one at the time of capture.

Technique 7
Consider using HDR (and no filter) because of the dynamic range it provides. 3 shots -2.5 -0.5 – + 2 is fine for most situations. Use Photomatix not Photoshop. If you DO use Photoshop to do your HDR you don’t need my advice!

Technique 8
have fun!